Cholatse Peak Climbing

Those who have descended towards Gokyo from Renjo la, or have climbed up Gokyo Ri, will remember the view towards Cholatse on the opposite side of the valley. It’s a stunning, laid-back-looking peak composed of steep faces and narrow snow and ice ridges. Unlike many of the trekking peaks, all routes to its summit involve sustained technical difficulty and for this reason Cholatse has attracted many of the world’s best mountaineers to attempt new, highly challenging routes.

Permits were first issued in spring 1982 and the peak was first scaled soon after. It was the last formally named but unclimbed peak in the Khumbu region. On April 22nd Vern Clevenger, Galen Rowell, John Roskelley and Bill O’Connor reached the summit via the south West Ridge. The south West Ridge is perhaps the easiest route on the peak and it was only repeated in 1993, again in 2005 and rarely since then. The South-East Ridge was first Climbed in same year.

The North-East face successfully scaled in 1984 and the first solo ascent was accomplished on April 15, 2005 by Ueli Steck. Remarkably he reached the summit via a direct line in a 37-hour push from base camp with a single night’s bivouac on the face.

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