Phari Lapcha Peak Climbing

Phari lapcha(6,017 m) , is a peak in the mahalangur range and lies just south- west of the popular trekking area of the Gokyo valley. Phari lapcha was only added to the permitted trekking peak list in 2002. It has since become popular among talented climbers as it offers extremely challenging, alpine-style, kilometer-tall lines on steep mixed ice and rock at a relatively low altitude.Phari lapcha itself has two summits and the East summit(5,977 m) is slightly lower than the main top. Phari lapcha is sometimes confused with Dawa peak(5,920 m) to the north-west of the main summits, and has been called phari lapcha west though it is arguably an entirely separate peak.

The first official ascent of the mountain was made in the spring of 2003 by Slovenians Juliana and Rey Marcelo Belo with Sherpa support via the south side of the mountain.Since then there have been a handful of new technical routes put up on the mountain – none of them easy – with names such as Bonfire of The Vanities, The end of the beginning and Independence Day.

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